FE-DOHC Turbo Powered 1989 Ford Courier - Part 3 COMMENTS

[Fred]

Comments for the main thread here please!

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=694

Fred.

[WARP-24]

Legality

4. Get a lever type unit rather than a knob type one, much nicer to use, you can make large adjustments quickly, i.e maximum pressure to fronts to get front tyres up to temp on warm up lap and get quickly back to race setup.
5. FC/FD RX7?
8. 6 piston wilwood's on a 310mm rotor will just clear a 15" rim
9. Have been thinking about this, interested to see what you come up with

Performance, Usability, Quality, etc

1. FC S5 has the stiffest casing - extra webbing. IMO S5>S6>S4 the FC boxes (S5, S4) have more conventional mounting than the FD units (S6,7,8) you MAY be able to fit the piston input shaft into the rotary trans, rotaries have very short input shafts
2. Or use 2 separate masters (trailer style ones are cheap) and no booster, results in more consistent brake pedal feel with less travel
6. ALWAYS shorten the bump stops when lowering, general rule is to cut them in half, if you end up putting quality shocks in the rig, you can incorporte the bump stops by fitting them on the shaft
8. Very interested in this will you be using a electronic speed controller like various toyotas?
13, 14. V-mount and vented bonnet?
22. See reply to post on MX6, could be the go?
27. I like!

Keen to hear your ideas, especially regarding the F8 build.

Cheers, Matt.

[Fred]

Matt, I screwed up your post by editing mine and inserting new items at the top of the list... I won't change the order again, I'll add them at the bottom from now on. Fixed, I inserted two sumps now at the end.

Legality:

4. Hmm, unsure about this. I'm more aiming for high-speed street/curvy stuff, I want the bias to always be good like my old skyline was. IE, scraping at the rocks with all four audibly with the windows down on a dry day. Are lever types even street legal in NZ with a cert? Don't they have to be not-adjustable in the cabin or within reach or something like that?
5. If I went IRS, maybe. I already have a friendy axle that needs some changes to be installed. It has respectable rotor sizes and I could swap the calipers if need be.
8. Good to know! I don't think I can get the rubber that I want in a 15, though? I also need more rolling diameter to get my ratios right, so sidewall height would get nasty on a small rim. 235 is the widest R888 on a 15" rim, not really enough, I don't think. 255/50ZR16 has a diameter of 657 compared to my current 603mm, and 255/40ZR17 is 638. Sadly I have to go to an 18 to get Y speed rating, which I need to achieve my 300kph goal with lower risk of death.
9. With a lathe and some other engineering equipment it'd be trivial to create a simple hall effect cam sync. Check this out, for example: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 218&type=1 however if I can put something more advanced in the same package, I'm keen.

1. Thank you, good to know. I will have to go and look at some and figure out what I've already got with the B2200 casing. Keen for it to be as strong as possible, but the ratios and fitment are the priority.
2. I think that's a bit excessive for a mainly street car? Similar feelings to the brake bias valve. If I had my way, I'd have no bias valve and naturally perfect bias.
6. This depends on deck clearance. I won't raise the deck any more than I already have, but it should be OK as is.
8. The physical aspect is just a driver box with a grunty FET or a pair and some load sharing resistors. The control aspect is up for experimentation <3 FreeEMS
13,14, goal is to get the weight back and provide crash protection (engine keeps running after a frontal with a cop car, for example, enabling escape) I also want it to mostly keep looking like a ute, IE, no fancy body work, not fancy from the outside anyway, composites, sure, but normal paint over them, and fairly normal front bumper setup with ducting where it needs to go.
22. Do I really have to go over there? Yeah, I'll try that mod and other changes, but I basically want to figure out what they can and can't do, bone stock.
27. This is all but essential to keep my truck fast, AND let it be driven hard. In fact, it's essential to MAKE my truck fast, because as it stands, it's slower 0 - 100 than 100 - 200 LOL 12 psi in 1st, 18 in 2nd, 25 in third+ or something.

F8 build is simply a matter of cams + rods + pistons + cross fingers oil pump can take the abuse. I reckon 8500 should be fine, but 9k? 9500? scary. 4ages spit out oil pumps from time to time up there. :-/ 8500 with some cams would make as much power as my turbo can anyway, I reckon (about 550hp @ crank) which is plenty for me. I could likely max out the turbo without cams, but I don't like the way the VE falls past 6500 at the moment. Peak torque is flatish 5k - 6500, then flat power to 8k. Or something like that.

Fred.